![]() ![]() Since tortillas and other products made from masa are so often mass-produced these days, “For us it’s important to preserve and educate our staff on these techniques and processes that are the foundation of not only our kitchen, but of Mexican cuisine,” says Cervantes. The laborious process continues throughout the day when the masa is prepped into the various shapes, sizes and textures that make up our menu,” Cervantes explains. “Everyday our corn is cooked and allowed to rest overnight before it is ground in the morning. ![]() In addition to the housemade tortillas that accompany many of the dishes, the tetela turnover with Swiss chard and pizza-like tlayuda topped with huitlacoche (corn fungus) also showcase the heritage masa that becomes a centerpiece of the dining experience. ![]() The corn is prepared with the ancient process of nixtamalization, Cervantes explains, by cooking it in a solution of water and ground limestone. Masa, the ancient result of processing dried corn into the dough that makes tortillas and so much more, is one of the central pillars of Damian’s approach, and indeed of all of Olvera’s restaurants. Duck carnitas and lobster al pastor fill out the proteins, while vegetarian mains include mole verde with mushrooms and celery root with chicatana salsa - and yes, that would be a smoky Oaxacan salsa made from a seasonal flying ant. The menu explores classic Mexican flavors like ceviches, aguachiles, and machacas, taking advantage of California’s wealth of produce and fresh seafood “that serve as a wonderful vehicle for the spicy and acidic flavors we’re inspired by,” Cervantes says.ĭishes like carne asada may sound familiar, but savoring slices of the premium hangar steak with grilled onion and greens, an avocado-based salsa and the house tortillas becomes a luxurious experience. “You can especially see that influence on our brunch menu,” which includes dishes like lobster tostada and fish machaca chilequiles. The cocktail menu also reflects those influences, Volfson explains, with drinks like the Smoked Highball with lapsang souchong-infused pine liqueur and the Yuzu Raspado, a refreshing frozen citrus cocktail with yuzu sake and mezcal, garnished with shiso leaf.ĭamian’s menu is inspired by the coastal regions of Mexico, Cervantes explains. Why sake? It “highlights the complex layers of flavor in Mexican cuisine,” Volfson says. Head chef Jesus Cervantes, pastry chef Josh Ulmer and beverage director Yana Volfson explained some of their concepts to Variety.ĭamian has a broad sake program, and Japanese influences can also be found in the tea selection and elsewhere on the menu. Silver Lake's Botanica Restaurant Blooms Anew With New Chefs and Produce-Driven Brunchĭear Jane's Seafood Sails Into Marina Del Rey The Butcher's Daughter Adds a Sunny Melrose Locationįrank Gehry Meets José Andrés at Downtown L.A.'s San Laurel Restaurant The Hideaway Opens in Beverly Hills From the impeccably warm service to the creative desserts, Damian is a singular dining experience and a hidden jewel of the buzzy arts district. ![]() diners can find exquisitely-plated, adventurous interpretations of the building blocks of Mexican cuisine. While Atla will be in the style of a fonda, or homey neighborhood eatery, Damian is where L.A. Later this year, an outpost of his New York restaurant Atla will open on Abbot Kinney in Venice, joining upscale Damian and casual taco spot Ditroit in the arts district of Downtown L.A. With this week’s announcement that distinguished Mexican chef Enrique Olvera would be opening a third restaurant in Los Angeles, it’s clear that the city is embracing the vision of restaurateur seen on “Chef’s Table” in a big way. ![]()
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